Frequently asked questions

1. As it is known, wheel alignment directly depends on the vehicle clearance, (i.e settling) and the clearance can change according to the car age. This is caused by sagging of springs and silent blocks.

2. Occurrence and accumulation of microscopic gaps in suspension pivot connections which cause tangible wheel alignment changes.

3. Natural body aging (unitized body vehicles). Permanent car body deformation in the operational process results in gradual changing of geometry and wheel alignment.

• Tight ball joints and track rods were installed while repairing, the idler arm or steering reduction gearbox (steering rack) are overtightened. It may stabilize on its own in the course of time, except for over tightening which should be brought to standard.

• Incorrect wheel alignment.

• Rim offset (parameter ET is indicated in the rim marking) does not correspond to the recommended one by the manufacturer.

• Tire pressure is low.

1. Check the tires to find out if they cause the vehicle pull. To do this exchange left and right front tires. If after that the vehicle starts pulling to another side, the cause is the tires. Rotate the tires to find a pair on which the vehicle travels straight. Then adjust the rotational direction (if there is an arrow on the tire which points the rotational direction), i.e. turn the tires over on the rims, if necessary. This reason for pulling to one side is very common now (and strangely enough, even when tires are new). Specialists say that is the so called tire nonuniformity.

2. Excessive tire imbalance. Wheel rim distortion.

3. Only the front axle of the vehicle was diagnosed and adjusted. Make a diagnosis of the rear axle. It may be the reason for pulling to one side (distortion, deformation, incorrect alignment).

4. There are hidden chassis faults, which could not be detected before performing wheel alignment for one reason or another.

There can be several reasons:

1. Excessive play in steering wheel. When traveling there is left or right free play and this causes a minor steering wheel deviation.

2. The vehicle has the rear axle turned. Wheel alignment was performed on the front axle without taking into account the rear axle shift.

3. Rear cross camber is too high, especially when one wheel has a positive camber and another has a negative camber.

4. Difference in tire pressure of rear/front wheels is too big.

5. There are hidden chassis faults, which could not be detected before performing wheel alignment for one reason or another.

Note: if besides steering wheel free play the vehicle also pulls to one side, first remove the cause of pulling to one side and then check for the proper steering wheel position.

•      track rod replacement
•      ball joint replacement
•      idler arm replacement
•      steering reduction gearbox replacement
•      suspension arm replacement
•      silent block and spring replacement (re-checking is required after 2000 - 3000 km traveled)

2. After changing the clearance of a vehicle (settling).

3. The vehicle pulls to one side or the steering wheel changed its position when traveling straight ahead.

4. Erratic steering.

5. Dull steering. Reaction to the steering wheel movement is slow. Hard steering.

6. The vehicle pulls to one side when braking or is going to make a U-turn on a slippery road (if the braking system works properly).

7. After hitting obstructions followed by rim deformation, suspension breakdown even if the signs mentioned above are not observed.

8. Excessive tire wear.

9. If the left and the right turning radii are different and you want to align them (sometimes it is accompanied by the fender guards catching on the wheels on the left- and right-hand lock).

10. The steering wheel returns to the center position slowly after making a turn.

11. After breaking-in a new car or after buying a used car.